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Dress code: Jacquet

10/4/2021

 
English version below

Dress codes: Morning coat

Morning dress is the most formal type of daywear we have. It does what a formal suit doesn't do, and a dinner suit (or tuxedo for some) shouldn't do. It is highly appropriate for very formal day occasions such as weddings, gatherings like Royal Ascot or even a state funeral.

Mostly seen as a morning coat with contrasting waistcoat and striped trousers, we also have the morning suit. The morning suit is the exact same style of garment, but made out of the same colour and material for coat, trousers and waistcoat. This version is mostly seen at Royal Ascot (often in grey) but also grooms are preferring it for their wedding to give them a bit of a distinction from their guests in regular morning dress. For weddings, people often opt for a contrasting waistcoat.
Time of day Any time with daylight, from morning until the afternoon. Please change into eveningwear before sunset or roughly 18:00 hours.
Appropriate occasions Daytime weddings, both for the groom and the guests. Formal day settings such as Royal Ascot or a state funeral, certain political events. During regular funerals it's mostly worn by the funeral directors, not the guests.
Coat Wool. Black is the most formal choice but very dark charcoal is also perfectly acceptable. The cloth is either plain or with a fine herringbone. It has cutaway fronts and a horizontal bodyseam at the height of the waist. The length of the coat should fall around the knees.
Waistcoat This is where you have room for a bit of a personal touch. It can be made from wool but also cotton or linen is acceptable and can add a bit of texture. Colours range from grey to all shades of pastel such as blue, pink, salmon or beige. We prefer a double breasted waistcoat with peaked lapels but it's single breasted cousin is also an option. Black waistcoats are stictly reservered for mourning.
Trousers Wool. Either grey or black as a ground colour and with black and grey stripes. The darker the trousers, the more traditional they are. Usually the lighter greys are prefered nowadays. Trousers can be pleated but certainly not cuffed.
Shirt Fine plain cotton with a regular turndown collar. The colour is often white, sometimes off-white (yuk!). More daring is a solid blue or pink body, or even finely striped, with white collar and cuffs.
Tie Silk. Plain or with a very fine pattern. Classic patterns are the glen check or sheppards check, often in silver grey. A dress cravat is acceptable but hard to find good ones these days.
Shoes Leather. Black oxfords with toe cap are the most preferred option. Make sure they are neatly polished and the laces are not frayed. It's easy and cheap to replace the laces for a brand new look.
Accessories Being the groom or host of the event gives you a lot of freedom, but don't overdo it. A pair of nice cufflinks, a pocket square or even a boutonniere in your lapel are great options for some personality in your outfit. Only wear a hat and gloves when specifically asked, it quickly becomes too costumy for our taste. Accessories such as a pocket watch are on the daring side and perhaps best left to those of us with enough pizzaz. Who cares about time anyways when you are having fun?

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  • Home
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    • Abraham Moon & Sons
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  • Contact