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April 2021

Barbour Ashby

24/4/2021

 
English version below
Pasvorm Modern, maar niet strak
Lengte Midden van de heup, niet lang genoeg om over een jasje te vallen
Mouwen Raglan mouwen met reguliere manchetten
Accessoires Optionele voering en capuchon beschikbaar
Kleuren Olive, Navy, Black
Foto
De Barbour Ashby is korter dan de Beaufort of Bristol, en wordt gezien als de modernere pasvorm van de klassieke Bedale wax jas, De jas is te kort om er een jasje onder te kunnen dragen.

De voorkant van de jas heeft de klassieke layout van zakken, grote opgezette zakken met klep op de heupen en schuine insteekzakken voor uw handen met moleskin voering in de taille. De rug van de jas is afgewerkt met zijsplitten met verborgen drukknopen, zodat u deze kunt sluiten indien nodig.

Alternatieven:
Zelfde lengte, ruimere pasvorm: Barbour Bedale
Langere lengte, zelfde pasvorm: Barbour Bristol
Langere lengte, ruimere pasvorm: Barbour Beaufort
 
The facts about the Barbour Ashby waxed jacket
Fit Modern, but not tight
Length Mid hip, not long enough to wear over a jacket
Sleeves Raglan sleeves with plain cuffs
Accessories Optional liner and hood available
Colours Olive, Navy, Black
Foto
The Barbour Ashby is shorter in length than the Beaufort or Bristol, and considered to be the modern fit version of the classic Bedale waxed jacket. It is too short to wear a suit or sports coat underneath.

The front has the classic layout of pockets; large bellow pockets on the hips and moleskin lined handwarmer pockets in the waist. The back of the coat is plain and has side vents with hidden poppers to keep them shut when needed.

Alternative options:

Same length, wider fit: Barbour Bedale
Longer length, same fit: Barbour Bristol
Longer length, wider fit: Barbour Beaufort
Read More

Barbour Beaufort

24/4/2021

 
English version below
Pasvorm Relaxed, ruime pasvorm
Lengte Over de heupen, lang genoeg om over een jasje te dragen
Mouwen Raglan mouwen met klittenband manchetten
Accessoires Optionele voering en capuchon beschikbaar
Kleuren Olive, Navy, Sage, Rustic, Black
Foto
De Beaufort is de meest klassieke versie van alle Barbour jassen. Hij is lang genoeg om over een jasje te dragen en heeft een klassieke en vrij ruime pasvorm. Perfect als u graag meerdere lagen onder de jas wilt dragen of de voorkeur geeft aan een ruime pasvorm.

De voorkant van de jas heeft de klassieke layout van zakken, grote opgezette zakken met klep op de heupen en schuine insteekzakken voor uw handen met moleskin voering in de taille. De rug van de jas heeft geen splitten maar een grote 'jachtzak' die van links naar rechts loopt, beide zijden hebben een rits. Handig om een sjaal of krant in mee te nemen!

Alternatieven:

Zelfde lengte, moderne pasvorm: Barbour Bristol
Kortere lengte, zelfde pasvorm: Barbour Bedale
Kortere lengte, moderne pasvorm: 
Barbour Ashby
 
The facts about the Barbour Beaufort waxed jacket
Fit Relaxed, wide fit
Length Over seat, long enough to wear over a jacket
Sleeves Raglan sleeves with velcro cuffs
Accessories Optional liner and hood available
Colours Olive, Navy, Sage, Rustic, Black
The Beaufort is the most classic version of all the Barbour jackets. It is long enough to wear over your suit or sports coat and has a classic relaxed and rather wide fit. Perfect if you prefer to layer-up underneath and/or enjoy a classic wide fitting coat.

The front has the classic layout of pockets; large bellow pockets on the hips and moleskin lined handwarmer pockets in the waist. The back of the coat has a large through and through 'game pocket'. Useful for storing a scarf or a news paper for us city folks.

Alternative options:
Same length, modern fit: Barbour Bristol

Shorter length, same fit: Barbour Bedale
Shorter length, modern fit: Barbour Ashby
Read More

Barbour Bedale

24/4/2021

 
English version below
Pasvorm Relaxed, ruime pasvorm
Lengte Midden van de heup, niet lang genoeg om over een jasje te vallen
Mouwen Raglan sleeves with ribbed cuffs
Accesoires Optionele voering en capuchon beschikbaar
Kleuren Olive, Navy, Sage, Rustic, Black
Foto
De Bedale wax jas heeft dezelfde klassieke en ruime pasvorm als de Barbour Beaufort, maar is korter van lengte. Hij valt ongeveer op het midden van de heup en is over het algemeen te kort om een jasje onder te kunnen dragen.

De voorkant van de jas heeft de klassieke layout van zakken, grote opgezette zakken met klep op de heupen en schuine insteekzakken voor uw handen met moleskin voering in de taille. De rug van de jas is afgewerkt met zijsplitten met verborgen drukknopen, zodat u deze kunt sluiten indien nodig. De mouwen zijn afgewerkt met gebreide manchetten om de wind buiten te houden.

Alternatieven:

Zelfde lengte, moderne pasvorm: Barbour Ashby
Langere lengte, zelfde pasvorm: Barbour Beaufort
Langere lengte, moderne pasvorm: Barbour Bristol
 
The facts about the Barbour Bedale waxed jacket
Fit Relaxed, wide fit
Length Mid hip, not long enough to wear over a jacket
Sleeves Raglan sleeves with ribbed cuffs
Accessories Optional liner and hood available
Colours Olive, Navy, Sage, Rustic, Black
The Bedale waxed jacket has the same classic relaxed and wide fit as the Barbour Beaufort, but is shorter in length. It ends mid-hip and is usually too short to wear over a suit or sports jacket.

The front has the classic layout of pockets; large bellow pockets on the hips and moleskin lined handwarmer pockets in the waist. The back of the coat is plain and has side vents with poppers to keep them shut when needed. The sleeves have ribbed cuffs to keep the wind out.

Alternative options:
Same length, modern fit: Barbour Ashby

Longer length, same fit: Barbour Beaufort
Longer length: modern fit: Barbour Bristol
Read More

Barbour Bristol

24/4/2021

 
English version below
Pasvorm Modern, maar niet strak
Lengte Over de heupen, lang genoeg om over een jasje te dragen
Mouwen Raglan mouwen met reguliere manchetten
Accessoires Optionele voering en capuchon beschikbaar
Kleuren Olive, Navy
Foto
De Barbour Bristol is het jongere broertje met moderne pasvorm van Barbour's ultieme klassieke wax jas, de Beaufort. De jas heeft een vergelijkbare lengte, over de heupen, en is lang genoeg om een jasje onder te kunnen dragen. De pasvorm is slanker dan de Beaufort, maar zeker niet strak of krap. Barbour jassen zijn en blijven bedoeld om buiten te kunnen dragen met verschillende lagen en geven voldoende bewegingsvrijheid. De Bristol is tegenwoordig de favoriete pasvorm van veel van onze klanten.

De voorkant van de jas heeft de klassieke layout van zakken, grote opgezette zakken met klep op de heupen en schuine insteekzakken voor uw handen met moleskin voering in de taille. De rug van de jas heeft geen splitten.

Alternatieven:
Zelfde lengte, ruimere pasvorm: Barbour Beaufort
Kortere lengte, zelfde pasvorm: Barbour Ashby
Kortere lengte, ruimere pasvorm: Barbour Bedale
 
The facts about the Barbour Bristol waxed jacket
Fit Modern, but not tight
Length Over seat, long enough to wear over a jacket
Sleeves Raglan sleeves with plain cuffs
Accessories Optional liner and hood available
Colours Olive, Navy
The Barbour Bristol is the modern fitting younger brother of Barbour's all-time classic waxed coat Beaufort. It has a similar length, over the seat, and fits perfectly over a suit or sports coat. The fit is more trim than the Beaufort, but nowhere near tight or slim. It is still an outerwear garment, meant for layering. The Bristol is the most preferred fit for our clients these days.

The front has the classic layout of pockets; large bellow pockets on the hips and moleskin lined handwarmer pockets in the waist. The back of the coat is plain and without side vents.

Alternative options:
Same length, wider fit: Barbour Beaufort
Shorter length, same fit: Barbour Ashby

Shorter length, wider fit: Barbour Bedale
Read More

Dress code: Jacquet

10/4/2021

 
English version below

Dress codes: Morning coat

Morning dress is the most formal type of daywear we have. It does what a formal suit doesn't do, and a dinner suit (or tuxedo for some) shouldn't do. It is highly appropriate for very formal day occasions such as weddings, gatherings like Royal Ascot or even a state funeral.

Mostly seen as a morning coat with contrasting waistcoat and striped trousers, we also have the morning suit. The morning suit is the exact same style of garment, but made out of the same colour and material for coat, trousers and waistcoat. This version is mostly seen at Royal Ascot (often in grey) but also grooms are preferring it for their wedding to give them a bit of a distinction from their guests in regular morning dress. For weddings, people often opt for a contrasting waistcoat.
Time of day Any time with daylight, from morning until the afternoon. Please change into eveningwear before sunset or roughly 18:00 hours.
Appropriate occasions Daytime weddings, both for the groom and the guests. Formal day settings such as Royal Ascot or a state funeral, certain political events. During regular funerals it's mostly worn by the funeral directors, not the guests.
Coat Wool. Black is the most formal choice but very dark charcoal is also perfectly acceptable. The cloth is either plain or with a fine herringbone. It has cutaway fronts and a horizontal bodyseam at the height of the waist. The length of the coat should fall around the knees.
Waistcoat This is where you have room for a bit of a personal touch. It can be made from wool but also cotton or linen is acceptable and can add a bit of texture. Colours range from grey to all shades of pastel such as blue, pink, salmon or beige. We prefer a double breasted waistcoat with peaked lapels but it's single breasted cousin is also an option. Black waistcoats are stictly reservered for mourning.
Trousers Wool. Either grey or black as a ground colour and with black and grey stripes. The darker the trousers, the more traditional they are. Usually the lighter greys are prefered nowadays. Trousers can be pleated but certainly not cuffed.
Shirt Fine plain cotton with a regular turndown collar. The colour is often white, sometimes off-white (yuk!). More daring is a solid blue or pink body, or even finely striped, with white collar and cuffs.
Tie Silk. Plain or with a very fine pattern. Classic patterns are the glen check or sheppards check, often in silver grey. A dress cravat is acceptable but hard to find good ones these days.
Shoes Leather. Black oxfords with toe cap are the most preferred option. Make sure they are neatly polished and the laces are not frayed. It's easy and cheap to replace the laces for a brand new look.
Accessories Being the groom or host of the event gives you a lot of freedom, but don't overdo it. A pair of nice cufflinks, a pocket square or even a boutonniere in your lapel are great options for some personality in your outfit. Only wear a hat and gloves when specifically asked, it quickly becomes too costumy for our taste. Accessories such as a pocket watch are on the daring side and perhaps best left to those of us with enough pizzaz. Who cares about time anyways when you are having fun?
Read More

Dress code: Rokkostuum

10/4/2021

 

Dress code: White Tie/Tailcoat

Where we have the morning coat as the most formal day dress option, the tailcoat is its evening counterpart. This formal evening dress is often referred to as white tie. It differs (amongst other things) from the dinner suit which is worn with a black tie. Life can be so simple.

​Due to the very formal nature of this outfit, it leaves very little room for personal touches and a lot of room to get things wrong. The fit and detailing of this evening dress come down to the centimeter and require a skilled tailor to get them right. Renting is just not an option, said the tailor.
Time of day All evening occasions, after sunset or roughly 18:00 hours. Usually events that request morning coat during the day and extend into the evening will request white tie for the evening part of the event.
Appropriate occasions The most formal events taking place in the evening, it will be requested on the invitation. When in doubt do call the host, otherwise a dinner suit is the better choice.
Coat Black woolen cloth in either a plain weave or barathea. Lapels are covered with black satin silk or the slighly less shiny grosgrain version. The fronts of the tailcoat are sharply cutaway and must extend just over the waistcoat. The tails at the back of the coat should end around the knee.
Waistcoat Made from white cotton with a Marcella piqué structure and is usually starched. It has a deep cut front with lapels and is seen both single and double breasted. Always make sure that the waistcoat does not show from underneath the fronts of the tailcoat.
Trousers Same material as the coat. The trousers may be pleated but not cuffed. The outside of the trouser leg has a double satin or grosgrain (to match the lapels) trim. It differs from the dinner suit trousers which only has a single trim, hence the tailcoat being more formal with its double trim.
Shirt Made from white cotton Marcella piqué and is usually starched. It features a wing collar and has single unfolded cuffs, worn with cufflinks. The fronts of the shirt are closed with shirt studs.
Tie White cotton Marcella piqué bow tie. Self-tied is always preferred. 
Shoes Black patent leather. Highly polished black leather oxfords are also acceptable. Try them with satin silk laces to make them stand out. Dress or opera pumps are technically correct but not our first choice in the 21st century.
Accessories A white linen pocket square and perhaps a boutonniere in your lapel. No watch please.
Read More

Dress code: Tenue de Ville/Zakelijk pak

10/4/2021

 
English version below

Het meest voorkomende kledingvoorschrift op uitnodigingen. Vaak onder allerlei andere benamingen die wat ons betreft exact hetzelfde betekenen. Soms wordt het verzoek om Tenue de Ville gevolgd door een specifieke kleur dat onderdeel is van het thema van die dag. Leuk om dat in uw outfit te verwerken, maar ga niet helemaal los. De gastheer verwacht niet dat u in een roze pak zult verschijnen. Verwerk de gevraagde kleur op een subtiele manier in uw accessoires.


De benaming Tenue de Ville komt oorspronkelijk uit het Frans en laat zich vertalen als stads kleding. Traditioneel gezien werd er een donker pak, wit of lichtblauw overhemd, nette das en zwarte schoenen mee aangeduid. Tegenwoordig zit daar, afhankelijk van de formaliteit van de gelegenheid, wat meer ruimte in. Een zomerse bruiloft op het strand behoefte niet noodzakelijk een donker pak, terwijl een zakelijke evenement waarin u verschijnt in een linnen pak met loafers wellicht een beetje vreemd is.
Tijd van de dag De gehele dag, zowel overdag als in de avond.
Gelegenheid Formele gelegenheden, zakelijke evenementen, bruiloften, een romantisch diner met uw partner in een sjiek restaurant.
Jasje Wol in donkere kleuren is de standaard keuze voor een formeel pak. Samenstellingen met mohair of zijde zijn ook mogelijk. Afhankelijk van de (zomerse) gelegenheid is een katoenen of linnen pak een mooi alternatief. Single breasted of double breasted, de keuze is aan u. Onthoud wel dat single breasted formeler is dan double breasted.
Vest Mag, hoeft zeker niet. Pakken zijn tegenwoordig vooral tweedelig (broek en jasje). Indien u toch voor een vest gaat, dan in ieder geval in dezelfde stof als broek en jasje.
Broek Dient van dezelfde stof te zijn als het jasje om er een pak van te maken. Een omslag aan de broekspijpen is optioneel maar een mooie informele toevoeging.
Overhemd Vrijwel altijd gemaakt van katoen. Het overhemd heeft een regulier boord en enkele of dubbele manchetten. Voor zomerse gelegenheden kunt u voor een mix van katoen/linnen of zelfs puur linnen kiezen.
Das Zijde, wol, linnen of een mix van deze materialen. De das kan van geweven maar ook gebreid materiaal zijn. Het patroon en de kleur dienen rustig en subtiel te zijn voor formele gelegenheden, maar mogen meer kleurrijk en uitgesproken zijn voor informele gelegenheden.
Schoenen Meestal gemaakt van glad leer in zwart of bruin. Loafers zijn in de zomer zeker een optie als de gelegenheid daar ruimte voor laat. Suede kan een mooi en iets minder formeel alternatief zijn voor glad leer.
Accessoires Pochet in wit linnen of een subtiele kleur of dessin. Hou het rustig!

Dress code: Tenue de Ville/Business Attire

The most common dress code you'll find on invitations. Often you'll also see variations that in our perspective (should) mean the exact same thing. Sometimes Tenue de Ville is followed by the request for a specific colour that supports the colour scheme of the event you are invited for. Don't go crazy with the request, they didn't mean for you to show up in a pink suit. Be subtle about it and reserve the colour for your accessories.

The term Tenue de Ville derives from the French language and translates as city clothing. Traditionally it represents a dark suit, white or light blue shirt, modest silk tie and black shoes. In present times, it gives you more options depending on the formality of the occasion. A summer wedding at the beach doesn't need a dark formal suit, while at a business event you would look out of place in your linen suit and loafers.
Time of day All day, any day. It is suitable for both daytime and evening events.
Appropriate occasions Formal gatherings, business events, weddings, a romantic dinner with your partner in a fancy restaurant.
Coat Wool in dark colours is the standard choice for a formal suit. Blends with mohair or silk are also appropriate. Depending on the (summer) occasion, a cotton or linen cloth would do the trick as well. Single breasted or double breasted, anything goes. Do remember that single breasted is considered to be more formal than double breasted.
Waistcoat Absolutely optional. Suits are mainly two piece (coat and trousers) nowadays. If you do go for a waistcoat, make it out of the same material as the coat and trousers.
Trousers Needs to be the same material as the coat to make it a suit. Cuffs on the trouser legs are optional and can give a nice informal touch.
Shirt As a default, shirts are made from cotton. They have a turn down collar, cuffs can be either single or double. For summer you can consider a blend of cotton and linen of even pure linen. 
Tie Silk, wool, linen or a mix of any of those. The tie can either be woven or knitted. Pattern and colour should be fine and subtle for formal situations, but can be colourful and bold for more informal occasions.
Shoes Usually made from smooth leather in black or brown. Loafers could be considered in summer if the occasion calls for it. Suede also makes a great alternative for smooth leather.
Accessories Pocket square in white or a subtle colour or pattern. Don't go crazy!
Read More

Dress code: Black Tie/Smoking

8/4/2021

 

Dress code: Black Tie/Smoking/Tuxedo/Dinner Suit

One of our favourite types of dress is the semi-formal evening dress. Known around the world by many different names such a Black Tie, Smoking, Tuxedo or Dinner Suit. In essence they all mean the same thing but have slight variations depending on your point of view and cultural background. Let us give you the quick rundown.

The earliest traces of what we will now refer to as a dinner suit, can be found in the 1860's when the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) ordered his tailor Henry Poole & Co of Savile Row, to make him a less formal version of his evening tailcoat. It was based on the lounge suit, but made in the same formal black cloth as the tailcoat and with the same black satin or grosgrain covered lapels. It quickly became a hit.

The name dinner suit comes from the dinner jacket, the 'suit' in dinner suit refers to both jacket and trousers being made out of the same cloth. It was indeed mainly used for dinner parties in the beginning, before expanding to other less formal events with close friends and family. After dinner, when the men would retire to the sitting room and discuss politics, the dinner jacket was often replaced with a velvet jacket. Since smoking was still very much bon-ton and you didn't want to get burn holes in your dinner jacket, the velvet jacket was a nice alternative for that. That is where the term smoking or smoking jacket comes from.

And where does the name tuxedo come from then? After the invention of the dinner suit, the trend also caught on in America where the wealthy citizens of New York frequently gathered in Tuxedo Park. The new and modern look of the dinner suit therefore became know as the tuxedo in America.

​So now you know!

We now know and see may variations on this type of evening wear. Some more successful than others, some downright hideous. When in doubt, stick to the classics. Of course we can always help you navigate the pitfalls and help you select something a little more extravagant.
Time of day Evening occasions after sunset or roughly 18:00 hours. 
Appropriate occasions Events where the tailcoat would be too formal and a regular business suit does not feel festive enough.
Coat Made from the same black woolen cloth as the tailcoat. A blend with mohair is often used because of its subtle sheen. Midnight blue is an acceptable alternative colour. Lapels are covered with black satin silk or grosgrain. A single breasted coat is the most formal but double breasted is also perfectly fine. The buttons of the coat are covered with the same cloth as the coat or the lapels. For summer occasions a (off)white coat is an option, in this case lapels are not covered with silk.
Waistcoat Several options here. You can go for a black satin pleated cumberbund or opt for a single or double breasted horse shoe waistcoat. Nowadays many dinner suits are even worn without any waist coverings. We'd go for the waistcoat.
Trousers Same material as the coat, unless the coat is white for summer. Trouser have a single black satin or grosgrain (to match the lapels) trim running down the outside seam of the trouser leg. Front of the trousers may be pleated but the trouser legs may not be cuffed.
Shirt Always white and made from a fine cotton. Nowadays a regular turn down collar is prefered as are double cuffs. The front has an extra placket to hide the shirt buttons and is sometimes seen with a pleated or a Marcella piqué front.
Tie Black satin silk bow tie. Self-tied is preferred. Please stay away from velvet bow ties or other 'fun' alternatives.
Shoes Black patent leather. Highly polished black leather oxfords are also acceptable. Try them with satin silk laces to make them stand out. Dress or opera pumps are technically correct but not our first choice in the 21st century.
Accessories A white linen pocketsquare and perhaps a boutonniere in your lapel. No watch please.
Read More

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  • Home
  • Maatpak
  • Maathemd
  • Trouwkleding
  • Blog
  • Instagram
  • Brands
    • Albert Thurston
    • Canclini
    • Drake's
    • Grandi & Rubinelli
    • Sunspel
  • Stoffen
    • Abraham Moon & Sons
    • Dugdale
    • Standeven
    • W. Bill
  • Contact
    • Routebeschrijving
    • Denneweg 75