Dress code: Black Tie/Smoking

Dress code: Black Tie/Smoking/Tuxedo/Dinner Suit

One of our favourite types of dress is the semi-formal evening dress. Known around the world by many different names such a Black Tie, Smoking, Tuxedo or Dinner Suit. In essence they all mean the same thing but have slight variations depending on your point of view and cultural background. Let us give you the quick rundown.

The earliest traces of what we will now refer to as a dinner suit, can be found in the 1860's when the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) ordered his tailor Henry Poole & Co of Savile Row, to make him a less formal version of his evening tailcoat. It was based on the lounge suit, but made in the same formal black cloth as the tailcoat and with the same black satin or grosgrain covered lapels. It quickly became a hit.

The name dinner suit comes from the dinner jacket, the 'suit' in dinner suit refers to both jacket and trousers being made out of the same cloth. It was indeed mainly used for dinner parties in the beginning, before expanding to other less formal events with close friends and family. After dinner, when the men would retire to the sitting room and discuss politics, the dinner jacket was often replaced with a velvet jacket. Since smoking was still very much bon-ton and you didn't want to get burn holes in your dinner jacket, the velvet jacket was a nice alternative for that. That is where the term smoking or smoking jacket comes from.

And where does the name tuxedo come from then? After the invention of the dinner suit, the trend also caught on in America where the wealthy citizens of New York frequently gathered in Tuxedo Park. The new and modern look of the dinner suit therefore became know as the tuxedo in America.

​So now you know!

We now know and see may variations on this type of evening wear. Some more successful than others, some downright hideous. When in doubt, stick to the classics. Of course we can always help you navigate the pitfalls and help you select something a little more extravagant.

Time of day	Evening occasions after sunset or roughly 18:00 hours.
Appropriate occasions	Events where the tailcoat would be too formal and a regular business suit does not feel festive enough.
Coat	Made from the same black woolen cloth as the tailcoat. A blend with mohair is often used because of its subtle sheen. Midnight blue is an acceptable alternative colour. Lapels are covered with black satin silk or grosgrain. A single breasted coat is the most formal but double breasted is also perfectly fine. The buttons of the coat are covered with the same cloth as the coat or the lapels. For summer occasions a (off)white coat is an option, in this case lapels are not covered with silk.
Waistcoat	Several options here. You can go for a black satin pleated cumberbund or opt for a single or double breasted horse shoe waistcoat. Nowadays many dinner suits are even worn without any waist coverings. We'd go for the waistcoat.
Trousers	Same material as the coat, unless the coat is white for summer. Trouser have a single black satin or grosgrain (to match the lapels) trim running down the outside seam of the trouser leg. Front of the trousers may be pleated but the trouser legs may not be cuffed.
Shirt	Always white and made from a fine cotton. Nowadays a regular turn down collar is prefered as are double cuffs. The front has an extra placket to hide the shirt buttons and is sometimes seen with a pleated or a Marcella piqué front.
Tie	Black satin silk bow tie. Self-tied is preferred. Please stay away from velvet bow ties or other 'fun' alternatives.
Shoes	Black patent leather. Highly polished black leather oxfords are also acceptable. Try them with satin silk laces to make them stand out. Dress or opera pumps are technically correct but not our first choice in the 21st century.
Accessories	A white linen pocketsquare and perhaps a boutonniere in your lapel. No watch please.