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Dress code: Rokkostuum

10/4/2021

 

Dress code: White Tie/Tailcoat

Where we have the morning coat as the most formal day dress option, the tailcoat is its evening counterpart. This formal evening dress is often referred to as white tie. It differs (amongst other things) from the dinner suit which is worn with a black tie. Life can be so simple.

​Due to the very formal nature of this outfit, it leaves very little room for personal touches and a lot of room to get things wrong. The fit and detailing of this evening dress come down to the centimeter and require a skilled tailor to get them right. Renting is just not an option, said the tailor.
Time of day All evening occasions, after sunset or roughly 18:00 hours. Usually events that request morning coat during the day and extend into the evening will request white tie for the evening part of the event.
Appropriate occasions The most formal events taking place in the evening, it will be requested on the invitation. When in doubt do call the host, otherwise a dinner suit is the better choice.
Coat Black woolen cloth in either a plain weave or barathea. Lapels are covered with black satin silk or the slighly less shiny grosgrain version. The fronts of the tailcoat are sharply cutaway and must extend just over the waistcoat. The tails at the back of the coat should end around the knee.
Waistcoat Made from white cotton with a Marcella piqué structure and is usually starched. It has a deep cut front with lapels and is seen both single and double breasted. Always make sure that the waistcoat does not show from underneath the fronts of the tailcoat.
Trousers Same material as the coat. The trousers may be pleated but not cuffed. The outside of the trouser leg has a double satin or grosgrain (to match the lapels) trim. It differs from the dinner suit trousers which only has a single trim, hence the tailcoat being more formal with its double trim.
Shirt Made from white cotton Marcella piqué and is usually starched. It features a wing collar and has single unfolded cuffs, worn with cufflinks. The fronts of the shirt are closed with shirt studs.
Tie White cotton Marcella piqué bow tie. Self-tied is always preferred. 
Shoes Black patent leather. Highly polished black leather oxfords are also acceptable. Try them with satin silk laces to make them stand out. Dress or opera pumps are technically correct but not our first choice in the 21st century.
Accessories A white linen pocket square and perhaps a boutonniere in your lapel. No watch please.

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